Once upon a time when dinners boasted as many as a dozen courses the “entrée” came after the hors d’oeuvre, soup and fish courses, but before the “relevé” (what we might call a main dish), the roast and various desserts. Eating has become more streamlined, the three course meal a norm and its entrée the conventional kicking off point.

Because its function has changed so has its content. The looser English term “Starter” may be less evocative, but it gives a better idea of the desire to do one’s own thing, to be inventive – the aspiration of almost all modern chefs - which is the characteristic of current restaurant entrées.

At home, a simple entrée might be a tomato salad or a soupe aux légumes. For the experienced cook there are no boundaries beyond those of good taste. When choosing a starter from the recipes Frédéric Rivière has created in this chapter, imagine how it will balance with the other courses. Should it be hot or cold? Should it be based on fish, meat or vegetables? Will it whet the appetite for a substantial main course? Should the portions be generous or restrained?

Our starters include:

Cold: La Roulade Du Mas Des Oliviers - Mas Des Oliviers Roulade

“I’ve christened this recipe after the Rhode School of Cuisine villa. The name translates loosely as “Olive Tree Farm” and is symbolic of the Provençal countryside. The combination of smoked salmon and artichoke, surprising in itself, is perfectly adapted to entertaining on a terrace on a balmy summer evening.” Frédéric Rivière


Hot: Fricassée De Ris De Veau Et De St Jacques Sur Une Salade De Noix - Warm Fricassee Of Sweetbreads And Scallops On A Walnut Salad

In America, Surf and Turf, steak and lobster was once almost staple restaurant fare. This though takes that rough concept and gives it finesse. The textures of veal sweetbreads (the pancreas of the young calf) and tender scallops contrast subtly both with each other and the powerful flavours of the accompanying vinaigrette.

Vegetarian: Les Petits Farçis Du Moment Au Coulis De Persil - Mini-Stuffed Vegetables With Parsley Coulis

This is another typical Provençal recipe, made from freshly-picked baby vegetables garnered by Frédéric Rivière from Forville Market in Cannes. Once you have the knack of working with zucchini and cherry tomatoes, try building on your repertoire with aubergines, bell peppers, and artichoke bottoms or hollowed out charlotte potatoes.


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